‘Colonel’ John Mead, enigmatic ‘Gentleman Bum’ of the River Hills, lost House Rock home found!

Overview

In the autumn of 2023, four local explorers – Luis of Simply ExploVenturing, Ryan of Hiker Dad Dude, Brett of Topo Ranger , and Cole Swanger —embarked on a journey to unveil a hidden piece of history. Their mission? To locate the lost rock shelter of the enigmatic Colonel John Mead, also known as the Hermit of House Rock.

Living the life of a self-proclaimed “Gentleman Bum,” Mead spent his last 25 years dwelling in the caves of the Susquehanna’s River Hills region. Despite his notoriety in southern Lancaster County, much of Mead’s life, including his real name, remains shrouded in mystery.

Armed with the only known photo of Mead in his House Rock shelter, discovered by Susquehanna Rambler Dennis Brooks in the York County History Center archives, and modern LiDAR scans, these intrepid adventurers narrowed their search area.

After trekking through the wilderness, they finally uncovered the elusive rock shelter, stepping into a piece of history 106 years after Mead’s death.

Here is the updated story of Mead (originally published on March 17, 2020) and the search for his Martic Township rock shelter home.

Middle Rock

Mead spent the last 25 years of his life living in various rock shelters and caves along the river hills of the Susquehanna. His first rock shelter home was located one mile east of the Martic Forge at a place Mead called “Middle Rock.” However, the building of the Enola Low-Grade in 1903 forced him out.

House Rock

Mead settled near the Susquehanna River, making his home beneath House Rock along the Columbia and Port Deposit Railroad (Port Road).

Mead protected himself from the weather by placing timber around the entrance to his rock home. He slept on a longboard only covered over by a thin sheet. Mead’s cookstove consisted of a half dozen bricks and a large iron plate. He was always well supplied with fuel from wood he cut in the surrounding forest and coal he picked along the railroad.

Canned goods, fish, dry bread, and coffee were on his daily menu.

Here, Mead entertained hundreds of visitors annually, some prominent figures in the community. Others were strangers on vacation in Pequea, a popular summer resort at the time. In fact, before the Great Depression, Pequea was a major tourist destination, with countless people staying at the River View Hotel each season.

Mead also delighted in showing visitors photographs that were taken of him in the company of the fairer sex.

He also had an extensive collection of Native American relics, which Mead claimed to have received through his association with indigenous groups. He said others were found in the woods near his cave home.

Those who visited him stated he would always accept a gift of money but never asked for any.

‘Colonel‘

Mead often referred to himself as a “gentleman bum” but was familiarly known as “Colonel” to visitors. He was an excellent conversationist and enjoyed discussing topics of the day. Little is known of his origin, as Mead typically avoided personal questions. What had been learned over the years was that he was originally a native of Maine. As a young man, Mead was employed by his father, who manufactured goods for the United States Government.

Mead never divulged his reason for living as a hermit. Today, we might have called him a survivalist. His closest friends believed that John Mead was an assumed name. The prefix of Colonel was never accounted for, except that he was a veteran likely of the Civil War. Mead possibly had PTSD, contributing to his desire to live as a hermit.

Gentleman Bum

Mead was brilliant and a constant reader. Most of his reading materials were provided by generous railroad workers who, on their trip past his home, would throw him books and newspapers from the train.

People believed Mead was well educated and said he was quite the linguist. He was always clean, tidy, and very courteous.

Mead occasionally worked for local farmers. They said he termed himself the “gentleman bum.” Mead would accept a meal, provided he worked for it, but he always refused to sleep in a bed. Often in the spring, he journeyed to New Jersey, where he worked on vegetable farms.

It was not uncommon for Mead to disappear for several days at a time, only to return with a supply of food, coal, and wood. He was a regular customer at the Eshleman store in Pequea, where he purchased supplies.

Observation Rock

I erroneously reported that Mead moved to “Observation Rock” in 1907 when the Port Road was widened and elevated. However, when Brooks found the York County History Center photo of Mead in his House Rock home dated August 18, 1911, it proved the 1907 date incorrect.

The Susquehanna Ramblers also found newspaper articles stating that Mead moved on March 6, 1915, to Observation Rock, 1.5 miles south of Pequea along the Port Road. Mead’s relocation was due to a 40-acre forest fire that engulfed his rock shelter home. Paul Heine, owner of the 40 acres, also built and owned the Hotel Brunswick in downtown Lancaster, PA.

Mead would call his Observation Rock cave home for only 18 months. His quarters were said to be situated beneath one of the highest rocks along the Lancaster County shore of the Susquehanna River. It provided magnificent views of the surrounding country. Mead enjoyed walking about his premises with visitors, pointing out and explaining to them the work of nature as well as distant places viewed from there.

A Sad End

On August 27, 1916, Mead was admitted to the county hospital due to complications related to an earlier surgery for cancer removal. Five months later and still a resident, 75-year-old Mead died on January 10, 1917. Despite his many visitors and acquiescence, Mead’s body was unclaimed after his death. He was buried at the Almshouse Cemetery. 

Second Life

That might have been the end of Mead’s story if it had not been for the COVID pandemic. During that initial two-week global shutdown in March 2020, I was stuck at home with nothing to do but conduct online research. During that time, I stumbled onto Mead’s obituary while reading the History in Newspapers section of the Conestoga Area Historical Society website. From there, I tracked down the original January 13, 1917, Lancaster Examiner article shown immediately below.

I quickly went down the rabbit hole reading about Mead’s life, eventually writing most of the article you read above.

Fast forward three years to June 2023, and the Susquehanna Rambers picked up the story when Dennis Brooks found the only known photo of Mead (shown immediately below and unedited) in the York County History Center archives. Their research also corrected some errors in my timeline of Mead’s life, specifically when and why he left House Rock. Those corrections are included above.

Hermit Cave Found!

That brings us to November 2023 and the aforementioned local explorers. This group, using a search area suggested by the Susquehanna Rambers and further narrowed by LiDAR scans, was able to find the lost rock shelter! Inside, they found several historic items possibly dating back to Mead’s time.

Armchair explorers might enjoy virtually visiting the Hermit’s house via Hiker Dude Dad and Topo Ranger‘s videos embedded below.

Hiker Dude Dad video

We found the 100-year-old home of the House Rock Hermit! Major Historical Find!

.

Topo Ranger video

Colonel Mead’s cave rediscovered after 100 years!

.

Be sure to check out Cole Swanger’s Instagram photos from the expedition.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Cole Mark Swanger (@coleswanger)

.

Out of fear of vandals, the exact location is being withheld from this article. Happy adventuring!

---

Adventure Awaits!

Never miss a new post or article by signing up for email updates below and following Uncharted Lancaster on Facebook or Instagram.

---

Resources

• The News-Journal January 11, 1917, Thu
• The Lancaster Examiner January 13, 1917, Sat
• An interesting character
• Almshouse Cemetery
• We Found the 100+ year old Home of the House Rock Hermit!!! Major Historical Find!
• Colonel Mead’s Cave Rediscovered after 100 years!